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Front hub model 96

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Front hub model 96

Post  dalgrae on Mon Oct 23, 2017 4:57 pm

Help please,I need to remove both bearings from my model 96 front hub but cannot figure out how to,I can see that there is a spacing tube in between the 2 bearings ,but the bore diameter is the same as the bearings,I can get this spacer to move slightly to one side but canot get any means to knock out either bearing

Any advice most wecome

Regards. Colin

dalgrae

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bearings

Post  Bigjim on Mon Oct 23, 2017 5:08 pm

dalgrae wrote:Help please,I need to remove both bearings from my model 96 front hub but cannot figure out how to,I can see that there is a spacing tube in between the 2 bearings ,but the bore diameter is the same as the bearings, I can get this spacer to move slightly to one side but can not get any means to knock out either bearing

Any advice most welcome

Regards. Colin
As per normal on BHC hubs, it is the only way. Wiggle the spacer and if possible, warm up the hub with an electric heat gun. Reheat when re-assembling
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Hubs

Post  kerabo on Mon Oct 23, 2017 5:50 pm

I am not familiar with he 96 but if it's like most Francis Barnetts it's straight forward. If it's a solid hub shaft then put a nut in to protect the threads and drive it out either way. That leaves a bearing and spacer still in. Then get a drift with clean edges and insert through the spacer and locate the other bearing and drive it out. The spacer may fall out before this.
If it's a hub with a push through shaft the same applies, get a drift and drive out the furthest bearing.
You say the spacer us the same size? I would be supprised if there was not enough play to find a lip on the bearing.
The drift needs to be just smaller than the bearing holes and long enough to go right through. Sharp clean edges are a must.
Ken
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Knock out spindle

Post  piston 197 on Mon Oct 23, 2017 6:11 pm

The clue is the spacer between the bearings, only fitted when there is a knock out spindle, the fixed spindle has a larger centre section diameter which acts as the spacer between the bearings, ( and is a lot easier to knock out).
The 96 has a knock out/through spindle
As was said earlier the spacer tube has to be moved aside to get a purchase on the bearing lip in order to knock out one bearing, remove the spacer tube and then knock out the other from the other side
JH
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Re: Front hub model 96

Post  Andy Preston on Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:25 pm

Hi mate sorry for butting in to your business but Ive just joined the forum but have not a clue how to post a help wanted if you could give me a heads up Id really appreciate it cheers Andy

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Posting

Post  kerabo on Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:34 pm

Andy Preston wrote:Hi mate sorry for butting in to your business but Ive just joined the forum but have not a clue how to post a help wanted if you could give me a heads up Id really appreciate it cheers Andy

You have just done it Andy.
Just choose the correct section.

Ken
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Model 96 hub

Post  dalgrae on Tue Oct 24, 2017 6:41 am

Hi thanks for your replies I think the grease in the hub must be hard stopping me from getting the spacer tube over enough to be able for me to get at the bearing to drive it out

Regards. Colin

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Front hub

Post  kerabo on Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:05 am

Colin

It may seem like that but that's why I said a nice flat ended drift. Get something long and insert through the outer bearing and hold tight to one side. This should hook up on the edge of the lower bearing. Tap it and then change sides and tap again and the bearing should come out. They are not that tight.
Regards Ken
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Re: Front hub model 96

Post  dalgrae on Tue Oct 24, 2017 11:33 am

Hi again right all parts removed from hub ,I take it the spacer tube in between the bearings should be a few thou longer than the face to face bearing locations in the hub ,so that the bearings are loaded correctly,the other mystery is that on the outside of the spacer tube is a pressed steel collar ,is this to centralise the spacer tube in the hub

Regards. Colin

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Re: Front hub model 96

Post  dalgrae on Tue Oct 24, 2017 12:32 pm

All parts cleaned and when measured the mid bearing spacer is .020 longer the the bearing face to face dimension in the hub ,the tin shroud that fits on the outside of the spacer seems to be to centralise it in the hub,this tin shroud was the cause of my problem as it did not allow the spacer to be pushed over enough to get at the bearings to drive them out of the hub,

Regards. Colin

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tin shrouds

Post  Bigjim on Tue Oct 24, 2017 12:38 pm

dalgrae wrote:All parts cleaned and when measured the mid bearing spacer is .020 longer the the bearing face to face dimension in the hub ,the tin shroud that fits on the outside of the spacer seems to be to centralise it in the hub,this tin shroud was the cause of my problem as it did not allow the spacer to be pushed over enough to get at the bearings to drive them out of the hub,

Regards. Colin

Are these about 2" in diameter, with a lip of 3/8" approx 15thou thick steel? f so these are dust cover for the bearings. New ones can be bought from Steve Gollings at Villiers spares
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Re: Front hub model 96

Post  dalgrae on Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:03 pm

Hi ,no this tin pressing is u shaped and is a snug fit on the outside diameter of the inter bearing spacer and a sliding fit on the hub inner diameter,not the bearing location,it seems to be there to centalise the spacer to the hub.

Regards. Colin

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Front hub

Post  kerabo on Wed Oct 25, 2017 7:52 am

All of the fb hubs I have seen the bearings just knock home to the bottom of its recess in the hub. I think the spacer is more to keep the grease from unsealed bearings in place. I always fit sealed bearings these days and this leaves the spacer and also the outer seals just for show.
Regards Ken
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Just for show?

Post  piston 197 on Wed Oct 25, 2017 7:58 am

The seals will be just for show when using sealed bearings ! but the spacer will be there out of necessity in order not to load the bearings when the pull through /knock out spindle is used, without the spacer between the bearing centres your bearings will be loaded and will not last long, it is not just there to keep grease in place, it takes the place of the increased centre section on the earlier fixed spindle type fitting.
JH
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Spacer

Post  kerabo on Wed Oct 25, 2017 8:13 am

piston 197 wrote:The seals will be just for show when using sealed bearings ! but the spacer will be there out of necessity in order not to load the bearings when the pull through /knock out spindle is used, without the spacer between the bearing centres your bearings will be loaded and will not last long, it is not just there to keep grease in place, it takes the place of the increased centre section on the earlier fixed spindle type fitting.
JH

Spot on John
Forgot all about the other type of spindle

While we are talking hubs. What's under the alloy trim? Are the hubs made of two sections?

Ken
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Under the alloy shroud

Post  piston 197 on Wed Oct 25, 2017 8:31 am

Under the alloy centre cover is just the same about 2" diameter tube you would find on a 1/2 width hub, some people building trials bikes strip out the alloy trim, turn the flange on the non-brake drum side down to about 4" diameter and re-drill for spokes, thus making their own 1/2 Width hub as the factory used on some trials machines.
JH
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Re: Front hub model 96

Post  dalgrae on Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:25 pm

Hi again as stated on previous posts the spacer is to position the bearings and apply load in the correct place,I think the tin shroud pressing on the outside of the spcer tube is to centralise it in the hub so that when the hub is horizontal it is to aid alignment it gives a better chance to insert the wheel spindle as without it the spacer tube can float to the side.

Regards and thanks. Colin

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Re: Front hub model 96

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