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Villiers 1H electrics---again!

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Villiers 1H electrics---again!

Post  Dogwheel on Wed Oct 04, 2017 9:45 am

Hello folks, I'm new here, and have a bit of a query.
If I convert my (sorry it's a J*mes,  1H, which has been a bit messed about in the past) ,  to straight coil ignition, does it make any sense to have the two existing LT Ignition Coils rewound as Lighting Coils, so as to provide decent battery charging output.
Thanks.

Dogwheel

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Join date : 2017-10-02

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Re: Villiers 1H electrics---again!

Post  Druid on Sun Oct 08, 2017 8:42 pm

Hi Dogwheel,
There is no need to replace the "ignition" coils they can be used to increase available output for charging/lighting. The standard FB Cruiser wiring system actually uses surplus output from the ignition coils to supplement the output from lighting coils via the rectifier. Note that the two pairs of coils cannot be directly connected in parallel (on a.c. side) because they are not in phase, so a diode is required to rectify the ignition output and the parallel made on the d.c. side.
Regards Dave.

Druid

Posts : 53
Join date : 2014-10-09
Location : Lancashire

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Diode question

Post  Dogwheel on Sun Oct 08, 2017 9:06 pm

Thanks for the reply Dave,
Aha! that starts to make sense.
Dare I ask for some more info about the diode I need and ideas as to how it should be wired?

Thanks,
Robin.

Dogwheel

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Re: Villiers 1H electrics---again!

Post  Druid on Tue Oct 10, 2017 10:13 am

Hi Robin,

Whilst you could use a separate diode ie 10A, 50V device, it would need to be soldered to suitable connections/terminals and mounted on an isolated heat sink.

The easiest way to modify your wiring would be to use a modern block type bridge rectifier with push on lucar type connections and use two of the four diodes in the package to rectify (1/2 wave) the outputs from the lighting and ignition coils.
Connect the wire from the lighting coils to one a.c. terminal on the rectifier and the wire from the ignition coils to the other a.c. terminal. Assuming you have negative earth wiring, the +ve terminal on the rectifier is connected to your battery + via the ammeter and preferably a fuse. Leave the rectifier -ve terminal disconnected and insulate to prevent accidental short circuit.

Note that the above mod partially replicates the original FB wiring system, however, in the standard FB 1H Cruiser system the lighting coils are switched into circuit by the lighting switch giving a simple form of charge control.

Regards Dave.


Druid

Posts : 53
Join date : 2014-10-09
Location : Lancashire

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still 1H wiring

Post  Dogwheel on Tue Oct 10, 2017 4:51 pm

Hi Dave,
Thanks, I'll happily try that. Unless you think that my idea, below, is viable:
I was going to use one of Rex Caunt's Regulator/rectifiers, which have two separate inputs , two separate (pos) outputs and a single (neg) to battery negative.
I intended to use one input for each pair of genny windings.
I rather hoped, that by using frugal LED stop/tail and pilot lights, there would be enough  output to make the bike usable.Thanks again,
Robin.

Dogwheel

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Re: Villiers 1H electrics---again!

Post  Druid on Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:47 pm

Hi Robin

I am not familiar with the specifications of the Rex Caunt 2 input rectifier/regulator so cannot advise on its suitability for use on the 1H electrical system.
I am assuming that you have had the engine running and found that a.c. generator "ignition" winding output is sufficient to give a positive charge to the battery with no lights but struggles with any lighting load. If so, the simple rectifier solution to utilise the output from the lighting windings should give sufficient electrical output to balance the ammeter, with standard headlight, at approx. 30mph.
If you do not have sufficient output to charge the battery with ignition load only then either the windings or flywheel magnets are suspect.
LED lights will help reduce the lighting load to approx. 1/4 the current of standard filament lamps. I have LED pilot and stop/tail lamps in my Cruiser 68, but have not yet tried one of the new (expensive) BPF headlamp bulbs

Dave

Druid

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1H Electrics --again

Post  Dogwheel on Fri Oct 13, 2017 7:15 pm

Hi Dave.
Well, I'm away from home for a few days, so testing is on hold.
However, first, thanks for putting my mind at rest as regards not needing to rewind the "ignition" generator coils. I have the engine running fine on battery+ (conventional Lucas)coil, and I'll probably leave it that way, I have fitted an unobtrusive switch and fuse to the coil "SW " feed.
I'll see if I can modify the original 1H (earthing) key switch to work in a more suitable manner.
Meanwhile, I now realise that with the engine running, I can use my multimeter to identify the best way to make use of the 4 generator windings, and then sort out a simple and logical (to me!) wiring system to replace the  original 63yr old and messed about loom.  I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again for the valued input,

Kind Regards,
Robin.

Dogwheel

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Re: Villiers 1H electrics---again!

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