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» Villiers S25/7
Sun Oct 22, 2017 7:34 pm by john87


Crank rebuilds

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Crank rebuilds

Post  john87 on Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:07 pm

So...

I have decided that i need a new big end. Where is the best place to take my crank or should i just buy the rod and bearing and get on with it?? I have straightened cranks before, but no idea how you get the villiers one apart!!

Who have others used and what did you think??

john..

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Crank rebuild

Post  piston 197 on Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:19 pm

Nametab engineering , Simon Bateman 01527 60395, 7 Walkers rd Redditch

JH
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Crank

Post  john87 on Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:26 pm

Hi John.

I thought nametab had closed down??

john..

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Nametab

Post  piston 197 on Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:36 pm

No, they just sold off their spares operation to Villiers services, but new premises and just doing the engineering now, rebores, engine rebuilds, crank rebuilds etc, to the same high standards as before !

JH
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Crank

Post  john87 on Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:27 pm

Absolutely brilliant!! I will be on to them first thing on monday!!

I have heard of them before, and they are, apparently, the best there is!!

Thanks JH..

john..

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Re: Crank rebuilds

Post  banjo boy on Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:39 am

I had my model 87 crank done by nametab excellent job.
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crank!!

Post  john87 on Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:44 am

Good, what did you have done and what sort of money was it?? How long did they have the crank for??

john..

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crank rebuild

Post  piston 197 on Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:50 am

I am assuming you are rebuilding a 10E crank, Nametab will probably have one of these in stock for exchange ?
Usual way of doing it is to grind out the crank big end eye oversize, fit new pin (usually .001" oversize to ensure snug press fit in flywheels) then fit new 1/4" rollers either .005" or 010" oversize according to how much wear there is and how much has to be removed from the big end eye., usually the small end eye is done at the same time.
All work done in house
I would expect a Villiers crank rebuild to be cheaper than an AMC due to the construction ?

JH
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crank

Post  john87 on Sun Aug 06, 2017 11:55 am

It just gets better!!!

i will email them and pop up and do the deal!!

Thanks JH

john..

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Re: Crank rebuilds

Post  banjo boy on Sun Aug 06, 2017 12:38 pm

My crank refurbished two and half year ago had big end and little end ,cost me around 135 I recall worth every penny
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crank

Post  john87 on Sun Aug 06, 2017 12:45 pm

Sounds good to me.

I will have a rebore and a piston too.

The bore and piston are ok mind, but it did occur to me that if the new con rod was a little longer or if there were differences in the crank [if i had an exchange one] then the rings might hit the wear ridge, and that would be the end of that...

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Re: Crank rebuilds

Post  banjo boy on Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:05 pm

If you are having a new piston and rings as you say,then there is no problem.
But if you are keeping the current piston and rings, perhaps may be but I would of thought there would be little difference,the centre's between big and little end should within a tight tolerance,or you could grind back the lip if is a problem, I did this on my barrel the bore was with the allowed tolerance I have covered about thousand miles.
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Centres

Post  piston 197 on Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:14 pm

The centre length of a 9 or 10E engine is 5 1/4", obviously there will be a tolerance on this distance, say maybe +/- .005" this could be enough for a new rod to cause the top ring to meet a ridge in the cylinder, likewise a thinner base gasket could do the same, however if the old big end has up and down play in it then on the upstroke this will have added to the height of the ridge and a new big end is likely to leave the piston lower in the cylinder when there is no wear, but really the only thing to do when fitting new pistons/rings is to hone out the step if the bore is still serviceable, although if there is a discernible lip then a re-bore is almost always required >
JH
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Post  john87 on Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:36 pm

Thanks John,

The bore and piston are perfectly ok, but as i have gone this far, i suppose i might as well have a rebore too?? At least then i have peace of mind and will not be riding about imagining rattling noises or having "is the engine siezing up" type thoughts!!

I might measure the bore later and see what i come up with..

john..

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Bore measuring

Post  piston 197 on Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:48 pm

Best way to measure bore wear !
Take one piston ring off the piston, place it in the bottom of the cylinder where the rings do not reach and will be unworn, square it up with the piston skirt and measure the ring gap with a feeler gauge.
Now place the ring in the top of the bore and push it down the bore about 1/2" ( just below the high point the rings reach or any lip) check the ring gap here as well.
Subtract the gap at the bottom unworn part of the bore from the gap at the top where the bore is worn, for every .003" ( .003142" actually, but .003 is near enough) difference in ring gap you will have approx. .001" of bore wear
If the difference in ring gap is more than about .015" between the 2 readings you will need a re-bore as this equates to .005" of wear.
No fancy gadgets required , just a ring, piston , feeler gauges, pen and paper ( or calculator if you are a young'un!)
JH
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Re: Crank rebuilds

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