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How far do you go in keeping with original build quality?

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How far do you go in keeping with original build quality?

Post  PeterIsANovice on Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:38 am

After stripping down my Bike, I notice that many of the bolts are either BSF or BSW. My manual only gives a reference number not the size and thread type.

a) Has anyone a breakdown of the original size screws and quality used?
b) For through bolts would metric be frowned on?

Thanking you in anticipation

Francis Barnett AMC 250 cc 2 stroke single 1960 Cruiser

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Bolt sizes

Post  piston 197 on Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:15 am

I think you will find there are a few British Cycle thread ones to add into the mix, basically it will be down to you whether you use metric threads, where both a nut and bolt are used ? anything into a threaded hole will have to be correct,
Metric sizes will be either tight or loose in their nearest equivalent imperial holes
i.e. 6mm is .236" whereas 1/4 is .250" = Loose
10mm is .393 " whereas 3/8 is .375" = Tight
I am not going to categorically say you should not do it, but it will always be a bodge, whether satisfactory or not ?
piston 197

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Metric or Imperial

Post  colk2004 on Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:19 pm

I've bit the bullet and gone for imperial throughout. I use metric for building on through bolts till I can get the right ones. Mainly due to being a pain to get the right spanner anyway, without throwing metric in the mix as well. But it's your bike to do with as you will. Crack on.

Cheers COlin

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Nuts and bolts

Post  kerabo on Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:01 pm

I know it's sad but I just can't bring myself to use a metric nut or bolt on my barnetts . I just could never be happy knowing I had cut a corner. It stands out a mile especially if you use Self locking nuts.

Regards Ken

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imperial threads

Post  Bigjim on Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:40 pm

There are plenty of people making Imperial (english) nuts & bolts. I tend to use stainless for the studding, with plated nuts. Stainless on stainless can wring if not lubed before running the nuts on. I found out the hard way with a 5/16" stainless bolt. I had to hacksaw it off. Just a light oil or thin grease will do. Buy a cgeap set of imperials taps & dies. No good for making stuff, great for cleaning up "tired" threads or cleaning engine casing threads, as they fill with 50 years of crud. Just having clean threads on build up day, makes all the difference. Villiers engines used wide variety. BSW, BSF Cycle & BA. Their stores must have been filled with all sizes & diameters of bolts.

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Re: How far do you go in keeping with original build quality?

Post  bessybarnett on Tue Jul 18, 2017 6:27 am

Stainless on stainless steel. Yes bigjim I was surprised once when I too had to hacksaw a large bolt off, when I tried to tighten the bracket on a, just purchased, all stainless steel Halcyon wing mirror. I couldn't tightened it onto the handlebars, it kept slipping and dropping. One of the worst purchases I have ever made! stainless steel poorly finished off round unsealed mirror, not cheap either, but that's another story!


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Post  john87 on Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:44 am

Stainless steel is just crap for bolts too. If you want to mess about with ancient bikes, part of it is forking out for a lathe and decent taps and dies and being prepared to make your own fasteners.

This will cost you more than the bike, but if that is what you need, then that is part of it...



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Re: How far do you go in keeping with original build quality?

Post  teebee67 on Sat Jul 22, 2017 9:56 am

Having recently returned to British bikes with 2 bikes from my youth (Sports Cruiser 91 and AJS Model 31) one of the 1st things I bought were a couple of nuts and bolts kits in BSF and Cycle thread plus some more Whitworth spanners. All available cheaply on Ebay and are proving invaluable as I converted my standard 31 to a CSR lookalike.


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Re: How far do you go in keeping with original build quality?

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